May 27, 2020
Fentimans Traditional Ginger Beer | A Review
When a peer approached Thomas Fentiman in 1905 for a loan he put up his unique recipe for a botanically brewed ginger beer as collateral. The loan went into default so Fentiman found himself with the means to brew something special and went right into the ginger beer business.
Stone jars were used to hold his new drink which he stamped with a picture of his dog Fearless. He loaded them all up in a horse-and-cart and delivered them door to door. Popularity quickly came and the business expanded to include several breweries in northern England. To this day Fentimans remains in the family and though the product line greatly expanded, the ginger beer is still the cornerstone.
Tonics of the late 19th century inspired the packaging design with its abundance of text, numerous descriptors and vintage silhouette. A label featuring Fearless encircles the elongated neck of the 9.3oz (275ml) bottle and highlights the inaugural year of the business. It’s entrancing, drawing in shoppers for a longer look and underscoring the uniqueness of the beverage. There’s absolutely nothing else on the shelf like it.
Inside that bottle dwells a fascinating list of ingredients for this 130 calorie drink (translating to 168 for 12 ounces). Into carbonated water go fermented ginger root extracts with cane sugar and glucose syrup as sweeteners. There’s speedwell, juniper and yarrow extracts for the botanical burst. Pear juice concentrate gives a depth of flavor and cream of tartar adds tang. Citric acid is present as well.
Prominent fizz builds when pouring Fentimans. The sparse sediment drifting in the cloudy, gold-tinted liquid isn’t all ginger. Some bits hold a darker color, traces of the botanical emphasis on this ginger beer. The nose is heavy in ginger, with an overture of botanicals and sweetness. It’s that sweetness which touches the tongue first with ginger trailing close behind. Alongside come the herbal tones. The pine taste of the juniper comes through as does a tarragon-like flavor of the yarrow. Breaths of lemon highlight the climax which also carries notes of pear. There’s a bit of heat, prickles quietly playing on the tongue. Botanicals then join the pear and whisper through the mildly sweet finish.
The flavor tells a story. Pieces are introduced that entwine during the progression, building in intensity before settling into a satisfying denouement. The herbs, the pear; Fentimans offers up an experience like no other ginger beer. It’s complex and precise, infinitely creative and must be tried to be understood.
Final Decision: Second Tier – Alluring
Purchased locally at: World Market. Also available at British Isles | Available online at: Antiqology, British Food Shop, British Isles, BritSuperstore (a variety of options), Soda4U, Soda Emporium (singles & 4-packs), Soda Pop Stop.
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